These are in order by arrondissement, starting with where we frequented the most. Other then that, they are in no particular sequence. I would eat at all of them again.
This is where we lived, so it’s a fine place to start. The west side of the city, near a large park (Bois de Boulogne). This neighborhood is quiet and lovely, filled with expats and embassies.
Le Stella – quintessential French in all the best ways. Great for people watching if you sit outside.
Le Petit Pergolese – arty little French place with delicious food and a lot of locals. We sat next to an elderly, perfectly groomed French woman enjoying her steak tartar.
Le Scossa – a charming spot on Place Victor Hugo. French food, but with a contemporary twist. We ate here a lot. The server hassled Allie about not finishing her cheese. My happy place: artichaut vinaigrette, tartare de saumon et avocat, crispy French bread and a chilled glass of Chablis. Sigh.
Restaurant Victor – wonderful food and ambiance.
La Cave Brut – Fantastic wine bar. Go! Wine flights with cheese pairings.
Ozio – Great Italian food. Warm and inviting, not pretentious. We ate here for the first time just after the November terrorist attacks, so I always feel comforted when I think of it.
Le Flandrin – really good. Not inexpensive, but worth it.
Restaurant BON – awesome Asian fusion – one of our favorite places. Absolutely beautiful decor. Terrific if you have a large group too.
La Coincidence – our neighborhood bistro. Small and intimate with wonderful food. The people are so very nice. Perfect.
La Librairie – I’ve been for lunch and dinner and it never disappoints. In the fun Passy district and near rue de l’Annonciation, a great little market street. Also, a nice lunch spot after a visit to Victor Hugo’s house.
Atelier Vivanda Lauriston – a tiny little steak place. Perfectly good food. We ate here with our friends Tina and Efrain, so it holds nice memories for me.
Le Bistrot des Vignes – Jim found this gem and we had a wonderful lunch. I always meant to go back for dinner.
La Petite Tour – another dimly lit wonderful bistro, mainly locals, wonderful food and service.
Restaurant Pages – a poetic food experience. Fantastic combination of French and Japanese. One of those places that Jim wouldn’t normally like (he loved it) – lots of courses, very preciously presented. But, it’s so good. Our very kind landlord treated us to dinner here.
Conti – wonderful Italian and perfectly gorgeous inside. Expensive, but worth it. We ate here on our very last night in Paris.
DS Salads – evidence that the big American salad has made it’s way to Paris, but in a good way. Very satisfying and a great menu. Gets busy quickly for lunch.
Carette – very good, though some would say pricey. At the Place du Trocodero, so such fun for people watching. Locals and tourists alike. Katie swears by the eggs.
Golden Tandoori – a perfectly fine little place with good Indian food.
La Table Lauriston – quiet, classic French. Owned by an old French couple (or so I think). Jim couldn’t finish his au gratin and the proprietress wasn’t pleased.
L’Etoile Vènitienne – nice little bistro. We only found this because it was downstairs from our first apartment. The owner is a cranky guy, but the servers are friendly. There’s always soccer playing on the bar TV. Best salad Nicoise I’ve ever had. Really good soup and steak frites.
Schwartzes – when you’re just really craving American comfort food. Great burgers, and the only place you can get a glass of Coppola Zinfandel.
La Gare – as the name says, it’s an old train station. Decent food, good for big groups and families. Great for lunch after a visit to nearby Musée Marmottan.
Village de l’Inde – Jim was always on the lookout for good Indian food, and this was a reliable go-to place.
Hure – bistro/boulangerie. Nice for brunch or to-go.
Le Pain Quotidien – Boulangerie/bistro. A very good chain, with a focus on organic salads, soups and sandwiches. A west coast vibe, so we felt very at home.
Coffee Parisien – A French diner with an American flair. Someone there is a fan of JFK. Nice for a low-key Sunday night dinner.
You Decide – tiny little café, with a tiny, though good quality menu.
Ma Poule – as the name says: chicken. Yummy roast chicken and veggies is basically it Simple and good. I liked it, Jim was not a fan.
Le Petite Ozio – the baby sibling of Ozio, mentioned above. Smaller menu with more emphasis on pizza.
No. 41- classic, yet modern bistro. Very good.
Creperie – exactly what it says. Perfectly fine little crepe restaurant.
Restaurant Le 1818 – this is just off Place Victor Hugo (the name refers to the year of publication of Victor Hugo’s first novel). We were disappointed that they didn’t serve wine (it’s Paris, for goodness sakes!). I was curious, so did some research – they are one of a handful of “halal” restaurants in Paris. Halal translates to “that which is permissible”, and dictates what is acceptable for Muslim diners.
Restaurant 16ème Avenue – this was a go-to place for us if we wanted an easy night out. Good ambiance, broad menu, decent prices.
3rd/4th ARRONDISSEMENT – MARAIS (THE OLD JEWISH QUARTER)
One of our favorite areas. Fun and lively with lots of good shops and food. We spent a lot of time here.
Le Dôme du Marais – lovely establishment and excellent food (my notes say “best salmon ever”). My friend Kristin and her family kindly took us here when we first arrived.
Auberge Nicolas Flamel - food is wonderful, but come for the ambiance alone.
We had our walking group kick-off lunch here. The building dates back to 1407 and is the oldest Inn in Paris.
Chez Janou – a friend in Mill Valley first told us about this place, and we brought almost all of our visitors here. It’s so, so good! Quintessential busy French bistro.
La Favorite Café – one of those open all day places. We ducked in here on a rainy day after a visit to the Musée Carnavalet – the Paris history museum, which is awesome.
Le Petit Marchè – a favorite of ours. Just go. A fun day is to visit the nearby Musée Cognacq-Jay and then have lunch here.
The Beast – we didn’t technically eat here, but sampled their goods at a food festival on the Canal Saint Martin. The best pulled pork – ever.
Au Rendez-vous Des Amis – cozy and fun, great food, in the heart of the Marais.
L’Enoteca – good Italian food, in a beautiful old building. A favorite of Katie’s.
Vin des Pyrenees – traditional bistro – rumor has it that Jim Morrison hung out here.
Breakfast in America – if you’re seriously craving an American grilled cheese and a milkshake.
Les Temps des Cerises – classic little bistro with reliably good food.
L’auberge de la reine blanche – wonderful little place with terrific food, on the Ile St. Louis. Roam around the Ile St. Louis/Ile de la Cite and then eat here. Warm and cozy inside, great on a rainy day.
Le Potager du Marais – Vegan – certified good by Allie.
Les Philosophes – get a table outside - good people watching. Had a fun day shopping in the Marais with Kelly, and then we stopped at L’improbable coffee house.
L’as du Fallafel – there are no words. Just go. Go now. This place is very well known, as evidenced by the massive line of customers patiently waiting outside. It is mainly a take-out place, but they are very efficient. It was on our “to-do” list all year long, and Allie and I finally made it there for lunch on our very last day in Paris.
1ST ARRONDISSEMENT (Louvre and the Tuileries)
Angelina – touristy and overpriced, but old world charm and marvelous hot chocolate. Go at least once.
Les Voyelles – nice lunch spot near the Ill de le cite/Ill Saint Louis.
O Chateau and Willi’s – wonderful wine bars
Zebulon – Asian inspired and very good. We followed dinner here with jazz at . . . Duc des Lombards
Chez Denise – wonderful little bistro with a local feel. Fun dinner here with Steve and Kelly.
Comptoir des Petits Champs – I had a fantastic risotto here.
Poulette – Amazing classic French food and a great time with visiting friends Matt and Steve.
A Casaluna – Cozy Italian – we drank a lot at Willi’s with Steve and Kelly, then came her for a late dinner.
Le Fumoir – great place for lunch very near the Louvre
Verjus – a well-rated restaurant, but we only did the very cool and intimate wine bar.
Le Pot de Vins – another classic bistro – reliably good!
Bar Hemingway – the famous bar in the Paris Ritz! Such fun, lots of atmosphere.
Crudus – we ducked in here after drinking at Bar Hemingway. Decent little Italian place.
7TH ARRONDISSEMENT – LE TOUR EIFFEL
Le Petit Cler – on Rue Cler, touristy yet fun market street.
Thoumieux - I had my birthday lunch here with Aviva and Kelly. I may not have gone otherwise – our friends introduced us to so many great restaurants.
Ravi - wonderful Indian and loaded with ambiance. Near the Tuileries.
Truffle Folie – oh my, if you like truffles, go! Tiny little place with otherworldly truffle concoctions.
Jules Verne – La Tour Eiffel – go once in your life with someone who will appreciate it. Sublime, yet expensive, cuisine, with beautifully attentive service. My mom and I had an unforgettable meal here during my apartment hunting visit. A special occasion place for sure.
Les Cocottes – one of chef Christian Constant’s several restaurants, (all on rue St. Dominique – one of my favorite streets). It’s just so very, very good.
La Fontaine de Mars – another classic on rue St. Dominique.
Bistro St. Dominique – and another one! Get a table upstairs – it’s very old world and charming.
Su Misura – an unassuming Italian place on Ave. Rapp. Carleen and I had a post-shopping lunch here. Very, very good.
Cairn – Happy morning coffee memories with Mary, Mary, Robin and Carleen. Really good coffee and lots of homemade goodies (good gluten-free stuff too)!
Les Antiquairies – a wonderful French bistro. I had a sort of good-bye lunch here with Kelly and Carleen. A beautiful salad Nicoise.
6TH ARRONDISSEMENT – SAINT GERMAIN DÉS PRES
Le Relais de l’Entrecote – there are three of these throughout the city and we tried them all. They serve just one thing: steak with a secret sauce. It’s sounds a bit kitschy, and there is always a line. But, it’s really yummy and a fun experience. Crispy bread, salad, steak, frites – and then they come by with a second helping. Add a good bottle of red, and you’re all set. Fun place to take visitors for sure, but we went there on our own as well.
Pizza Chic – wonderful gourmet pizza restaurant.
Le Comptoir du Relais – this is a fantastic bistro. Classically prepared French food and a terrific location. Perhaps it was who I was with though – a farewell lunch for Aviva, with Kelly and Carleen. We got really lucky with our friends.
Café de la Rotonde – I can’t speak to the food, but it’s loaded with ambiance. A former haunt of writers and artists from back in the day. I used to write my blog here sometimes with a glass of wine.
Café Nemrod and Le Rousseau – both located on rue de Cherche midi. I would sit and write while Allie endured her French dance class. Also, nearby my favorite consignment store. The food was good too.
Le Procope – on a fabulous little lane – the rue de l’Ancienne Comédiun - and said to be the very first coffee shop in Paris. It’s a classically beautiful establishment with wonderful food. At the end of the lane, you come to rue de Buci – hang right and stroll on this fun street.
Il Gelato del Marchese – a whimsical gelato and tea shop owned by a charming Italian guy.
Le Hibou – I’ve not been here personally, but it’s highly recommended by Katie (excellent cocktails apparently).
Restaurant 65th Bis - after visiting the nearby Musée Jacquemart-André (one of our favorites), we had the most enjoyable lunch of our lives. You’ll have to read my blog for more detail. The food was pretty good too.
Epicure – three star dining at the beautiful Hotel Le Bristol. We went for lunch with our dear friends Karen and Robin. Worth a splurge for a special occasion.
Le Bar du Bristol – swanky bar in the Hotel Le Bristol. Such fun for a post dinner drink. We went after a lecture at the American Embassy, which is nearby.
Chez Savy – locals type bistro with excellent French classics. Had a fun dinner here with my friend Stacy and her posse when they visited.
Pomze – this is the French word for apple, so it helps if you like apples, as the menu is thus inspired. I had a very enjoyable dinner here with Kelly and Kristin. Kelly, who doesn’t like apples and chose the restaurant, was nevertheless pleased (I think).
Le Fouquet – a stylish traditional Brasserie, with lots of history, on the ever-touristy Champs-Élysées. It’s simply beautiful on the inside and fun people watching on the terrace. We were pleasantly surprised with the food as well.
Chez Andre – Yet another lovely brasserie with good food and typical French ambiance (that I never will get enough of). We ate here with visiting family before seeing cabaret at Le Lido.
Relais l’entrecote – as noted above, there are a few of these throughout the city and we ate at them all. Katie had a friend visiting from the States, and we three enjoyed a meal and a good bottle of Rosé at this location.
18TH ARRONDISSEMENT – MONTMARTRE/SACRE COEUR
L’Anvers du Décor – quintessential French in Montmartre.
Le Basilic – such a beautiful, intimate restaurant, with wonderful food. Very charming and romantic.
Bistro 82 – we ate here with our niece, Mary Catherine. Good food, good wine, followed by a hike to the top of Sacre Coeur.
Le Chenin – we had a fantastic lunch here with visiting family. It is the real deal French, so be open to trying something new. What I most recall is Katie’s meal – a whole fish, eyes and all.
Lulu White – loads of atmosphere and strong drinks in this very cool Speakeasy.
Caffe Stern – Passages des Panoramas. It’s such fun to visit any of the Covered Passages – the roof-topped shopping areas dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. This is one of my favorite restaurants. Italian and so wonderful.
Frenchie (to go) – we’ve not been to Frenchie – the highly rated, upscale eaterie. I’ve heard it’s excellent though. Frenchie to go is their casual outpost across the street. We first sampled their goods at a food festival. The Reuben is outstanding – even if you think you don’t like them. Go for lunch.
11TH ARRONDISSEMENT – Oberkampf area (on my list to explore more of)
Bistro Paul Bert - You’ll have heard of this probably and everything they say is true. Go.
Au Nouveau Nez – a small wine shop where you can enjoy a bottle (or two) while snacking on ample charcuterie and cheese.
Le Baron Rouge – spend time exploring and shopping at nearby Marche d’Aligre – and then stop by this locals type wine bar for a glass of red.
Eric Kayser (Bercy Village) – we ended up here after a visit to the Musee des Arts Forains. Bercy Village is a little enclave of shops and eateries nearby. Eric Kayser is a nice café for salads, etc.
10TH ARRONDISSEMENT – Canal St. Martin
I’d meant to spend more time in this area as well. Very fun and trendy, with lots of good restaurants.
L’Hotel du Nord - our friend Isabelle took us here for a farewell lunch. Lovely restaurant in a very cool hotel. Lots of history and good food.
Gabylou – this was a great find by my husband. The owner is lovely and the food wonderful.
La Maison Courtine – cozy and classic with good French food. We had lunch here after a visit to the Catacombs.
5TH ARRONDISSEMENT – LATIN QUARTER
L’Arbre à Cannelle – a sweet left bank bistro – nice to combine with a visit to the Jardin Des Plantes.
Brasserie Lola – consistently good vegan food. We ate here several times.
And here’s a few places outside of Paris . . .
The Little Italy
Saint Ouen - Clignancourt
Fou de Fafa
La Table des Fines Roches
Auberge de la Miotte
Chateau de Chantilly – Capitainerie
And a few outside of France . . .
Hummus (vegan place)
Dry Martini (cocktail bar)
Bea’s of Bloomsburys
Joe Allen (Thanksgiving)
Café Bella Maria
40 Dean Street
Burgerlijk Burger Bar
Strofi - awesome classic Greek fare and fabulous Acropolis views
Avocado - great vegetarian
Red Bicycle - great food and wonderful caldera views
Avocado - great vegetarian
Red Bicycle - great food and wonderful caldera views
Merci et Au Revoir!